upon the world : Konnichiwa Fujisan!

We felt the majesty and magnetism of Mount Fuji from the moment we arrived in Japan. 'Welcome to Japan' signs boast the many faces of Fuji as you walk the airport corridors; gift shop shelves are stocked with likeness of the revered volcano in the way of sake cups, fridge magnets, tanagui cloth and much more. Albums and guide books featuring Fuji line bookshop storefronts. Images of it are ubiquitous, in one form or another, around Japan and the strong affinity its people have for the mountain is palpable. We've sensed its pull on us since we first got here and all along we've craved catching a glimpse of the famous profile from some vantage point in the city. Rising from the ground and towering over surrounding mountains a mere 100km West of Tokyo, it is surprisingly tough to see due to obstruction from buildings, smog and the precipitation that accumulates around it.
I managed to see a glorious sunset behind Fuji on a clear, however smoggy day once, while Gabe sees it outside of train station at work from time to time.

Getting to see it up close and personal was never a matter of will, only a matter of time, and we finally spent a weekend exploring an area on the North face of the mountain, in a town called Kawaguchiko.

We rented a car from Haneda Airport and drove the 117km highway stretch that led us practically to the very foot of Mount Fuji. Still, we could only barely see it. With snow flurries in the air and low clouds swallowing the top of the mountain we couldn't get a good view, but we sure felt in awe of it just the same. It's difficult to explain why this pile of volcanic rock holds such power over any person, but we couldn't deny being under its spell.

Mount Fuji or Fujisan, as it is called in Japanese, named for the Buddhist fire goddess Fuchi, has been considered sacred from as long as people have been around it. Although revered by Japanese Buddhists, it is especially important to Shintoists as an embodiment of the very spirit of nature, and every year thousands make a pilgrimage to its summit to watch the sun rise from this beloved mountain top.

For us, it was here in its shadow, that we truly appreciated the appeal of Fuji and the surrounding area. We glanced at it every chance we got and marveled at its beauty under changing weather conditions over the weekend. We did manage to take in a few other area attractions when not gawking at Mount Fuji.

Ice sculptures on route to Lake Saiko

First we explored Saiko Iyashi no sato Nenba (yeah, it's a mouthful), a reconstructed thatched roof village that sits on the shore of Lake Saiko, one of Five Fuji Lakes at the north base of the mountain.
Here we got a sense of what a traditional Japanese settlement was like, with each house designated as a hub of regional industry or craft. Among them we find the House of Oishi-tsumugi and Fabrics, a place for hand-weaving and sericulture; a Local Produce Processing and Marketing Centre; a Pottery Workshop.

Saiko Iyashi no sato Nenba, a Healing Village

A beautiful thached roof house made of wood and adobe clay, with the gable facade designed to look like the mask of a Samurai.

The Produce Store, featuring local venison jerky!

Old grain mill and hand tools

Paper Workshop

One of these 21 beautiful structures was a Houtou Restaurant, where we warmed up with a bowl of hand rolled Udon noodle soup, a local specialty.

Pulled closer by the power of Fujisan we drive into the mysterious Aokigahara, The Sea of Trees, Japan's infamous suicide forest. The forest is believed to be the dwelling place of the Shinto god of death, and many hikers have reportedly disappeared on its unmarked trails. Some intentionally.

We appreciate this fact, but we're left with no impression of doom about the place and here we venture into an Ice Cave where we get giddy and playful in narrow passageways. I guess it's not much of a phenomenon in the winter, a cave full of ice, but it remains cold and iced over in the summer months as well. Most people visit it in July and August, summer being the hiking/climbing season, and enjoy it as a reprieve from the sweltering humidity of hot summer days. Sounds cool!

Town of Kawaguchiko at Lake Kawaguchi

Once in town we checked into Kawaguchiko Hotel and enjoyed a relaxing soak in a 4th floor bath house with views of you know what and healing waters from volcanic hot springs. It is a shared bath, called Onsen and each bather is required to scrub down and rinse well before they enter as it is shared with others. The Onsen is a quintessential Japanese experience, one which my students say is their favorite thing about Japan. There are thousands of hot springs across the country, due to constant volcanic activity in the islands, each one with different mineral content and properties depending on location.

After a dinner of regionally revered tempura and delicious sake from a local brewery we enjoyed an intimate viewing of fireworks over Lake Kawaguchi. It was us and just a handful of other tourists braving the bitter -5C. It's been a while since we've been exposed to sub zero temperatures so -5C felt like torture. Regardless, we strolled down an icy road along the lake to catch a better view between some trees and sipped sake from ceramic cups to invigorate the old bones.

With the sky clearing and a nearly full moon hanging over Kawaguchiko we anticipated spectacular night views of Fuji from our hotel room. At 4AM the mountain called me out of my sleep and drew me to the drafty window for a spectacle. It appeared surprisingly modest, its snow capped peak glistening in the moon light, the rest of it nearly blending with the indigo winter sky. A single cloud was creeping up its Eastern face, but 'he' was otherwise unadorned, revealed. Perfect. I dared not take a photo.

The following day we took to Kachi Kachi Ropeway then a 500 step climb to Arakura Sengen Shrine for more spectacular views of you know what.

Fortune Bell to be rung while admiring Mount Fuji, as if being there to see it wasn't good fortune in itself

Arakura Sengen Shrine

Quick stop at Ide Brewery to pick up some tasty local specialty sake, made with Fujisan water (No brewery tours that morning, so we'll have to come back again). Then another uber Udon lunch at reputable local restaurant, after which we took the scenic 4 hour drive back to Tokyo through the mountainous Yamanashi Prefecture.